Rear-left window regulator replacement may be needed when glass drops, tilts or stops moving while the motor grinds on a 2002–2006 Jeep Liberty KJ with the early ball-stud attachment. There is no dedicated generic OBD-II engine code that proves this mechanical failure. Check the glass retainer, guides, switches and motor before buying; symptoms alone do not establish that the complete assembly has failed.
Fitment limit: the featured seller specifies production through February 25, 2006 and ball-stud glass attachment only. Inspect the actual mechanism and confirm the VIN/build information before ordering. A previously repaired door may have different glass or a converted regulator. This guide covers one rear-left door; “driver side” refers to a left-hand-drive vehicle.
Intermediate: fragile trim, supported glass and careful electrical isolation.
1.5–3 hours for one uncomplicated door. Diagnosis or damaged glass adds time.
$70–$130 for one assembly and minor supplies. Tools and damaged door parts are extra.
Safety before opening the door
Falling glass and a powered regulator can cause serious injury. Work parked on level ground with the parking brake set. Wear eye protection and suitable gloves. Have a helper control the pane whenever its support changes; do not work beneath unsecured glass or cut loaded cables.
Turn the ignition and accessories off, remove the key, and disconnect and secure the battery negative lead before unplugging the speaker or reaching into the mechanism. Allow a conservative two-minute pause, consistent with Jeep’s SRS power-down interval. Optional KJ side airbags are roof-mounted curtains; this procedure does not remove them. Leave restraint-system wiring and pillar/headliner components alone.
For any powered positioning or test, secure the assembly and wiring, clear all hands and tools, and keep the engine off. Isolate the battery again before returning to the door cavity. Stop for cracked glass, a loose glass-side bracket, an inaccessible jam or wiring damage.
Featured regulator and motor assembly
A-Premium WR0057 rear-left power window regulator with motor
ASIN: B01MTG8J26. Selected variation: Rear Driver Side. The package contains one assembled regulator with a two-pin electric motor for the ball-stud/spring-clip glass connection. No old-motor transfer is needed.
The listing mentions installation hardware without specifying every piece or quantity. Do not assume it supplies new glass, a glass-side stud/bracket, door clips, a switch or a water barrier. Compare the actual package with the old assembly. Mopar cross-references are 55360035AJ and 68059647AB; 748-569 is an aftermarket interchange number.
Vehicle compatibility and purchasing checks
| Model years | Vehicle and location | Engine / configuration | Required restriction |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2002–2005 | Jeep Liberty KJ Sport Utility; rear left | No engine, transmission or drivetrain restriction stated in the manufacturer’s application rows. | Installed ball-stud/spring-clip glass attachment; matching mounts and two-pin connector. |
| 2006 | Jeep Liberty KJ Sport Utility; rear left | Same configuration checks; seller also names the 65th Anniversary Edition. | Seller cutoff: through February 25, 2006. Ball-stud/spring-clip attachment must still be present. |
The WR0057 manufacturer catalog has a broader year listing, but this buying guide retains the supplied Amazon variation’s narrower limit. It does not establish fitment for later 2006 production, 2007, a front door, the right rear door or hole-style glass. Check both the VIN-based application and the parts physically installed; the model year alone cannot identify a conversion.
Diagnose before replacing the assembly
- Motor runs, glass falls or stays still: inspect the carrier, glass stud, spring clip, rail and cable/tube. Stop cycling a grinding mechanism.
- No movement or sound: compare the front-console master control with the rear-console switch, with the rear-window lockout released. A supply, switch, connector, harness or motor fault needs electrical diagnosis; a new assembly cannot fix the other circuits.
- Glass tilts or binds: check its guide channels and attached bracket. Do not use the motor to force a misaligned pane.
- Only the lift plate is broken: Chrysler bulletin 23-002-11 describes a repair option when the remaining components are sound. A complete assembly is not automatically the least expensive repair.
The KJ’s rear switches are on the center console, so normal rear-door trim removal does not require removing a door-mounted window switch. Have electrical testing performed with the correct wiring diagram if the motor is silent; do not apply power to unidentified terminals.
Tools and supplies
Use suitable tools already owned. The torque tool must cover 2–9 Nm, and the Phillips bit needs a compatible square-drive holder. These are inch-pound jobs, not 80-foot-pound jobs. The code reader is conditional; its role is explained below.
| Tool or Supply | Exact Product | Product Link | Purpose and Selection Check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plastic trim tools | Tresalto five-piece nylon trim-removal set, blue | View Tresalto trim tools | Release the door-panel clips with the tool close to each clip. Nylon helps protect trim; old clips can still break. |
| Phillips screwdriver | Klein Tools 32500 11-in-1 screwdriver/nut driver | View Klein Phillips driver | Includes #1 and #2 Phillips bits for the panel and speaker screws. Seat the bit fully and confirm fit; use the separate socket-kit bit holder with the torque wrench for the speaker screws. |
| Long flat-blade screwdriver | Klein Tools 601-8 cabinet-tip screwdriver, 3/16-inch tip and 8-inch shaft | View Klein long flat blade | Reach and disengage the metal glass-retaining clip with controlled pressure. Check access; these dimensions describe this tool, not a Jeep-mandated size. Never lever against the glass. |
| Metric socket, ratchet, extensions and Phillips torque bit | TEKTON SKT07906 50-piece 1/4-inch-drive 12-point shallow socket and bit set | View TEKTON socket and bit set | Includes the 10 mm socket, ratchet, extensions, Phillips #1–#3 bits and a 1/4-inch-square-drive-to-hex bit holder. The holder connects the correct Phillips bit to the torque wrench for the speaker screws. Check the actual battery-clamp fastener before choosing a socket. |
| Low-range torque wrench | EWK EB0351, 1/4-inch drive, 10–150 in-lb (1.13–16.95 Nm) | View EWK low-range torque wrench | Its range covers the 2 Nm speaker screws, 75 in-lb standard battery clamp and 80 in-lb regulator mounts. Use the socket kit’s bit holder and properly fitting Phillips bit for the speaker. Select EB0351; a wrench starting at 20 in-lb is above 2 Nm. |
| Secure glass support | Lisle 63900 window holder | View Lisle window holder | Loops over a framed door and grips both sides of the raised glass. Inspect the cable and cups, clean contact areas and confirm secure attachment before releasing the regulator; use a helper while transferring support. Remove the holder before powered testing. |
| Firm plastic squeegee | 3M PA1-G Gold hand applicator | View 3M Gold applicator | The firm applicator has a nylon-reinforced edge for pressing the clean, intact water-barrier adhesive back around its full perimeter. Use a clean, undamaged edge and avoid puncturing the barrier. One applicator is enough; check the seller’s pack quantity. |
| Eye protection | 3M 91252 clear-lens impact/splash goggles, one pair | View 3M protective goggles | Protect eyes while releasing clips and working inside the door. Adjust for a secure fit and maintain clear vision. This selection does not imply a chemical-cleaning step is required. |
| Cut-resistant work gloves | Klein Tools 60589 ANSI A4 knit-dipped gloves, Large, two pairs | View Klein cut-resistant gloves | Help protect against sharp door edges during unpowered work. Choose a properly fitting size; cut-resistant is not cut-proof. Keep hands away from the regulator and remove gloves where moving parts could catch them. |
| Clean cloths | Amazon Basics microfiber cloths, 16 × 12 inches, blue/white/yellow, 24-pack | View Amazon Basics cloths | Use clean cloths for dust and the glass-holder contact areas, and keep dirt off preserved barrier adhesive. Only a few are needed; suitable cloths already owned are sufficient. |
| OBD-II code reader — optional | Autel AutoLink AL319 | View Autel AL319 code reader | Can read and clear supported engine/PCM emission-related codes after battery reconnection. Record codes before clearing and investigate unrelated or returning faults. It is not a window, airbag or body-module programming tool; use a repair shop if the required code is unsupported. |
| Replacement water barrier, adhesive or panel clips — only if needed | Select replacements for the actual rear-left KJ door and follow their installation instructions | Select for the actual door | Reuse only a clean, undamaged barrier and serviceable adhesive. Stop and obtain the correct replacement if the barrier, seal or clips are damaged; the regulator listing does not establish that these pieces are supplied. |
DIY versus professional cost
| Expense | Planning amount | Scope |
|---|---|---|
| Regulator with motor | $70–$100 | One aftermarket rear-left assembly; check the seller’s current price. |
| Minor consumables / small service pieces | $0–$30 | Assumes the original water barrier and most hardware remain serviceable. |
| DIY total with suitable tools owned | $70–$130 | Parts and minor supplies; excludes damaged glass, a new barrier and electrical repairs. |
| Missing tools and PPE | $180–$320 allowance | Buying the complete selection can cost more than the repair part. Buy only what is missing; diagnostic equipment/service is extra if needed. |
| DIY total starting without tools | $250–$450 allowance | Assembly, minor supplies and the estimated tool/PPE purchase; no labor charge. |
| Shop benchmark: 2005 Liberty | $256–$373 | $110–$161 labor plus $146–$212 parts. |
| Shop benchmark: 2006 Liberty | $487–$538 | $110–$161 labor plus approximately $377 parts. |
DIY amounts and working time are planning estimates, not live Amazon prices or factory labor times. The separate 2005 and 2006 RepairPal estimates are model/year comparisons, not quotes for this exact ASIN or door; they exclude tax, fees, location adjustments and related repairs. Ask a shop to identify the attachment style and quote the necessary scope.
Fastener specifications
| Connection | Setting | Application and source |
|---|---|---|
| Six regulator / motor-bracket mounts | 9 Nm / 80 in-lb | Early ball-stud KJ rear mechanism; follow the numbered factory tightening sequence. |
| Standard battery negative-clamp pinch-bolt nut | 75 in-lb / about 8.5 Nm | KJ battery installation; verify instructions for any aftermarket terminal. |
| Rear speaker screws | 2 Nm / about 18 in-lb | KJ rear speaker installation; the manual prints a rounded 20 in-lb pairing. |
| Rear trim-panel screws | Secure with a correctly fitting hand driver | No numeric torque is specified in the cited panel installation; do not apply the regulator setting. |
Start every fastener by hand and reuse only correct, undamaged hardware. The glass connects with a stud and retaining clip; there is no glass-clamp bolt to torque in this procedure.
Rear-left regulator replacement procedure
1. Remove the trim and expose the regulator
With the battery isolated as described above, remove the handle-recess cover and its Phillips screw, then the screw in the pull cup. Release perimeter clips close to their attachment points, lift the panel clear and support it. Unclip the inside-handle rod’s plastic retainer without bending the rod; detach any applicable connector before setting the panel aside.
Remove the three Phillips speaker screws and unplug the speaker. Photograph the water barrier and rod routing. Peel the barrier back carefully, keeping dirt off its adhesive. Follow the KJ rear-panel and waterdam instructions; do not tear the membrane for access.
2. Release the glass and secure it raised
Locate the metal retaining clip through the door’s access opening. If powered positioning is necessary, first secure loose wiring and clear hands/tools, reconnect the negative clamp to 75 in-lb, and use the console switch with the ignition in ACCESSORY or RUN and engine off. Then turn everything off and isolate the negative lead again before reaching inside.
With a helper holding the pane, use the long flat blade to disengage the clip and separate the glass stud from its lift plate. Keep the tool off the glass edge. Raise the released glass evenly and fit the holder according to Lisle’s directions. Confirm that it holds securely before removing the mechanism. If a jam prevents safe access, stop; do not cut cables under load or force the pane.
3. Remove the complete old assembly
Release the runout-tube retainer where fitted. Support the rail and motor, loosen the six 10 mm-head mounting bolts, and move their heads through the enlarged mounting slots as applicable. Release the motor connector’s secondary lock and latch, then unplug it. Guide the assembly through the door opening without striking the supported glass. Keep track of each mounting bolt and retainer.
Compare the new rear-left unit’s mounts, carrier, tube routing and connector with the old one. Inspect the glass-side stud and bracket for damage or looseness. The replacement does not correct a failed bond between that bracket and the glass.
4. Install and tighten the new unit
Keep the supplied motor and cable drive assembled. Start the appropriate mounting bolts loosely, place the unit inside the door and seat its mounts in the slots. Restore the tube retainer and route the harness away from the rail, cable and handle rods. Connect the motor and engage its connector lock.
Tighten all six mounts to 9 Nm / 80 in-lb in the factory Figure 18 order: lower rail bolt first, the two upper rail bolts next, then the three motor-bracket mounts in the illustrated order. The adjacent component-identification drawing uses different numbers; use the tightening diagram.
5. Seat the glass stud and retaining clip
If the carrier must move to meet the glass, do so only with the assembly mounted, glass securely held and hands/tools outside the door. Use the controlled powered-positioning method in Step 2, then isolate the battery again.
Have the helper control the glass while removing its holder. Lower the pane evenly, align the ball stud with the lift plate and seat it fully. Confirm that the metal spring clip positively captures the stud and cannot slide off its intended position. Follow the replacement’s clip arrangement; do not force engagement with the motor. Remove every temporary glass support before testing.
6. Test before sealing the door
Clear the mechanism, secure loose leads and reconnect the negative clamp to 75 in-lb. With the engine off and ignition enabled, operate the window through its travel from both console controls. Watch for straight movement, firm glass retention and clearance from the harness and rods. Check the rear-switch lockout. Stop immediately for binding, a loose stud, abnormal noise or uneven travel.
Turn the ignition and accessories off and isolate the negative lead again before touching the cavity or reconnecting the speaker. A successful movement test comes before the water barrier and trim hide the attachment.
7. Restore the water seal and reassemble
Reuse only a clean, intact water barrier with serviceable adhesive. Route the rods through their original openings. Locate the upper rear corner, then the upper front, and press the complete original sealing path with the firm plastic squeegee. Preserve the factory lower membrane coverage over the inner-panel openings; leave the actual drainage outlets along the door bottom unobstructed. Replace damaged or contaminated material before closing the panel.
Reconnect the speaker and tighten its three screws to 2 Nm. Refit the handle rod and its retainer, align the panel’s upper edge and clips, and install both panel screws and the small cover. Confirm that the handle, lock and child-lock work before relying on a closed door.
8. Reconnect power and complete the checks
Reconnect the standard negative clamp to 75 in-lb. Recheck smooth window travel, both controls, lockout, speaker and door operation. Check that water remains outside the cabin after a gentle exterior water test.
The KJ rear-regulator instructions do not prescribe a window relearn. The 2006 battery procedure does call for checking the PCM for battery-disconnection codes and clearing them if needed. Record codes first; the listed reader handles supported engine codes only. Investigate unrelated or returning faults and use professional diagnosis for unsupported systems.
Common mistakes
- Buying by year alone: the seller’s production cutoff and actual ball-stud attachment both matter.
- Replacing good components: diagnose a switch fault, broken clip or repairable lift plate before buying the complete assembly.
- Leaving the stud partly engaged: moving glass does not prove that the retainer has captured it.
- Working with power connected: isolate before every return to the mechanism, including after a test.
- Using the wrong torque range: a wrench starting at 20 in-lb is above the exact 2 Nm speaker setting.
- Skipping the water seal: damaged adhesive or incorrect lower membrane placement can leave the cabin wet.
Frequently asked questions
Does this kit fit both rear doors?
No. B01MTG8J26 is the rear-left variation. The opposite door needs its own part; see the rear-passenger ball-stud regulator guide.
Why is the 2006 build date not enough?
A door can have replacement glass or a converted regulator. Check the installed stud/clip, mounting pattern and connector as well as the seller’s February 25 cutoff. A hole-style pane does not become compatible because the vehicle was built early.
Can I reuse the motor or repair only the carrier?
This featured assembly includes its own motor. A separate carrier repair may suit a sound original mechanism, but it is a different purchase and requires its own matching instructions.
Sources and further reading
A-Premium WR0057 specifications; Chrysler bulletin 23-002-11; KJ power-regulator glass release; 2006 KJ rear-regulator service procedure; and the 2005 Jeep factory service manual (rear doors 23-32–35, switches 8N-29–31, curtain airbags 8O-21).
1A Auto’s rear-regulator demonstration shows the opposite rear door on a 2006 KJ and is useful for locating the fasteners and clip. Match the actual attachment and use this page’s exact-ASIN purchase limits and the linked factory specifications.