Variable valve timing (VVT) oil-control solenoid replacement on a 2004–2007 Toyota Highlander 3.3L 3MZ-FE V6, non-hybrid may be considered for rough running, hesitation or a check-engine light with P0010, P0020, P0011, P0012, P0021 or P0022. These faults involve the control circuit or cam-timing response; they do not prove that a replacement solenoid will fix the vehicle. Oil condition, electrical faults and mechanical timing must be considered first.
Which Highlander this guide covers
The repair scope is the first-generation Highlander with the conventional 3.3L V6. There is an oil-control valve for each cylinder bank. These valves meter oil to the intake-cam timing mechanisms. They are different from the camshaft position sensors and from the mechanical VVT actuators themselves. A pair of solenoids does not include the cam gears or repair a worn timing mechanism.
Check the VIN, engine label and whether the vehicle is a hybrid before ordering. This guide excludes the 2.4L four-cylinder, the earlier 3.0L V6, the later 3.5L V6 and all hybrid procedures. A seller may list several of those other vehicle families elsewhere, but the same model name does not establish the same part or access sequence.
Intermediate; diagnosis and clean O-ring installation matter
Approximately 1–2 hours for the pair after diagnosis, assuming normal access and no seized valves
Approximately $45–100 for the two-valve set; planning estimate, not a current price

Featured left/right solenoid pair
A-Premium 2-PC Left & Right Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid, manufacturer part APTCV037, ASIN B092J9K9WV. This selection contains two valves, one for each side, with two-pin electrical connections. It is not two interchangeable copies of one side.
| Side reference group | Seller interchange references | Selection check |
|---|---|---|
| RH valve group | 15330-0A010, 15330-20010, 15330-20011 | Match the removed RH valve and connector orientation. |
| LH valve group | 15340-0A010, 15340-20010, 15340-20011 | Match the removed LH valve; do not decide by standing at the front of the car. |
Compare the delivered parts before opening their packaging fully or fitting them. Obtain fresh, correctly sized oil-control-valve O-rings if they are not supplied on the new valves. The listing’s two-valve quantity does not establish inclusion of separate filter screens, filter-plug seals, fasteners, wiring repairs or engine oil. Retain the original valves separately until the new parts have been identified.
View the left and right VVT solenoid pair
Vehicle compatibility and exclusions
| Make and model | Model years | Engine / configuration | Article coverage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Toyota Highlander | 2004–2007 | 3.3L 3MZ-FE V6, non-hybrid | Left and right oil-control valves; confirm VIN and OEM references. |
| Toyota Highlander Hybrid | Not included in this procedure | Hybrid 3.3L configurations appear in the broader seller range | Separate access, disabling and service requirements; do not use this procedure. |
| Toyota Highlander four-cylinder or 3.5L V6 | Not included | Different engine families | Do not infer compatibility from the Highlander name. |
The manufacturer also markets this kit for selected Camry, Avalon, Sienna, Solara and Lexus applications. This article deliberately uses the Highlander’s 3.3L repair scope. Its years are not a claim that the 2008–2010 conventional Highlander uses the same engine. The broader 2004–2010 3.3L seller range must be filtered by engine and hybrid status.
Symptoms, codes and useful diagnostic checks
| Code group | What it directs you toward | What to check before replacement |
|---|---|---|
| P0010 / P0020 | Intake camshaft actuator circuit, bank 1 / bank 2 | Connector condition, wiring continuity and the valve coil, following the correct circuit diagram. |
| P0011 / P0012 | Bank 1 timing response; over-advanced/performance or over-retarded | Oil supply, valve movement and mechanical timing. |
| P0021 / P0022 | Bank 2 timing response; over-advanced/performance or over-retarded | The corresponding bank’s oil-control system and mechanical condition. |
Toyota’s 3MZ diagnostic procedure associates P0011/P0012 with the RH bank and P0021/P0022 with the LH bank. Record freeze-frame information and identify the affected bank from service information, not a generic retailer’s “driver side” label. A problem on one bank does not automatically require replacing both valves.
Check oil and electrical condition
Start with the oil level, contamination and maintenance history. Correct a low level and investigate why it was low. A warning for inadequate oil pressure requires a pressure test and repair before continued running. Inspect the two-pin connectors for broken locks, spread terminals, corrosion and damaged wiring. Replacing a mechanically good valve will not repair an open wire or a poor connection.
For the original 3MZ-FE oil-control valve, Toyota specifies 6.9–7.9 ohms at 20°C (68°F) between the valve terminals. Disconnect the valve and remove power before measuring resistance; account for meter-lead resistance. An in-range coil does not prove that the spool moves freely or that oil reaches the actuator. Toyota’s component inspection also checks free movement and return. Perform electrical actuation only with the correct terminal identification and protected equipment, with the valve isolated from the vehicle harness.
When a scan tool or shop diagnosis helps
A basic OBD-II reader records codes and freeze-frame data. It cannot be assumed to command Toyota’s oil-control valves. A compatible enhanced scanner can help compare commanded and actual response while a technician follows the Toyota test sequence. If a timing fault returns after the electrical circuit checks out, investigate restricted oil supply, the OCV filters and mechanical cam timing. Filter-plug service is a separate operation requiring its own seals and torque specification.
Tools, replacement materials and supplies
These exact tool listings are appropriate for code recording, electrical checks and low-torque fasteners. Socket size must be confirmed on the actual vehicle. An inch-pound wrench is necessary because the small retaining-bolt torque is easy to exceed with a large wrench.
| Tool or Supply | Exact Product | Product Link | Purpose and Selection Check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metric sockets and ratchets | DEWALT DWMT73803, 168-piece mechanic’s set | View metric sockets and ratchets | 1/4- and 3/8-inch drives. Match each actual fastener; socket sizes are not inferred from thread diameter. |
| Low-range torque wrench | EPAuto 1/4-inch, 20–200 in-lb (2.26–22.6 N·m) | View low-range torque wrench | For verified small-fastener specifications within its range; confirm socket drive and use the correct units. |
| Basic OBD-II reader | Autel AL319 | View basic obd-ii reader | Reads codes, freeze-frame and supported data; does not provide manufacturer-specific bidirectional actuator tests. |
| Digital multimeter | INNOVA 3320 | View digital multimeter | Voltage and resistance diagnosis following the circuit procedure; disconnect power before resistance tests. |
| Eye protection | DEWALT DPG82-11 clear goggles, one pair | View eye protection | Protect eyes from loose debris; choose additional chemical protection appropriate to the fluid being handled. |
| Fresh valve O-rings | Two application-matched O-rings if servicing both valves | Select by vehicle specification | Use new oil-compatible seals of the correct dimensions; verify whether the delivered solenoids already include them. Do not substitute a general plumbing ring. |
| Engine oil for seal lubrication | Clean oil meeting the vehicle’s specified grade and performance requirements | Select by vehicle specification | Use a light film on each new O-ring. Select oil by the vehicle specification; a lubrication film does not require a complete oil change. |
| Cleaning and spill materials | Clean low-lint cloths, protective gloves and a small oil-resistant catch container | Select by vehicle specification | Clean the exterior before removal, keep debris out of the bores, and select gloves compatible with oil and any cleaning product. |
DIY and shop cost estimates
| Cost item | DIY planning range | Professional planning range |
|---|---|---|
| Two-valve set | $45–100 | $70–180 |
| Seals and small consumables | $10–30 | $10–40 |
| Tools, if needed | $120–300 for basic socket, torque and diagnostic tools | Normally included in shop overhead |
| Labor after diagnosis | About 1–2 hours of your time | $120–400 at an assumed 1–2 hours and $120–200/hour |
| Estimated total | $55–130 with tools owned; $175–430 buying listed tools | $200–620 before tax and separate diagnosis |
These are estimates for accessible valves, intact connectors and sound fastener threads. They are not current product prices or guaranteed labor times. A seized valve, damaged connector, restricted oil passage or mechanical timing fault changes the scope. A shop estimate should state whether it covers one valve or both and whether the original diagnostic charge is additional.
Step-by-step replacement overview
1. Record the fault and prepare
Save all diagnostic information and confirm the affected bank before clearing codes. With the engine cool, secure the vehicle and isolate the negative battery cable. Lay out the two new valves and compare their part identification, connector angle and mounting ears. Keep the left and right parts separated. Use enough lighting to see each retaining bolt and to retrieve it without dropping it into the engine bay.
2. Identify and expose the oil-control valves
Remove the decorative V-bank cover as needed for visibility. The OCVs are at the transaxle end of the two cylinder heads, one for each bank. Identify the two-pin electrical connector and single retaining bolt on each valve. Do not confuse the OCV with a nearby sensor or remove timing-belt components to replace it. Photograph anything moved for access. If a harness or component prevents straight withdrawal, create proper clearance before pulling; do not lever against hoses or wiring.
3. Remove one valve at a time
Clean dirt from around the valve opening before unplugging it. Release the connector latch, remove the retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the valve from the head. Use controlled movement at the body rather than pulling on the connector. Collect the old O-ring and any small drips. A valve that will not withdraw without excessive force needs a planned extraction method; breaking its body can turn a small repair into a much larger job.
4. Inspect the bore and fit the correct replacement
Check that no old seal remains in the opening. Compare the old and new valve side by side, including the mounting ear and connector keying. Keep solvent, dirt and seal fragments out of the oil passage. Fit the correct new O-ring and apply a light film of clean engine oil. Insert the valve squarely without twisting or pinching the ring. Do not use RTV around this O-ring or use the bolt to drag a misaligned valve into the bore.
5. Secure and reconnect
Start the retaining bolt by hand. For the covered 3MZ-FE application, tighten the camshaft timing oil-control-valve retaining bolt to 8.0 N·m (71 in-lb). This is an inch-pound specification, not 71 foot-pounds. Reconnect the electrical plug until its latch engages. If both valves are being replaced, repeat the process with the correctly identified valve on the other bank. Inspect connector locks rather than forcing a mismatched plug.
6. Reassemble and check operation
Restore anything moved for access and refit the decorative cover securely. Remove tools, cloths and temporary protection from the engine compartment. Reconnect the battery and follow the owner’s instructions for any settings affected by loss of power. Check the oil level. Start the engine, inspect both valve bases for leakage and shut down immediately if oil escapes or abnormal noise appears.
When idle is stable and there are no leaks, perform a cautious road test under conditions similar to the recorded complaint. Recheck pending and stored codes and inspect again after the engine has cooled. Readiness monitors may need normal driving to complete after codes are cleared. A good repair is demonstrated by correct operation and the absence of recurring faults, not simply by erasing the warning light.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Buying the pair because a generic lookup says “Highlander,” without verifying the 3MZ engine and non-hybrid configuration.
- Switching the left and right valves or using casual driver/passenger descriptions to identify engine banks.
- Assuming a good resistance reading proves hydraulic operation.
- Reusing a flattened O-ring, leaving an old ring in the bore or forcing the valve home with its bolt.
- Adding sealant to an O-ring joint or using a foot-pound torque value where inch-pounds are specified.
- Clearing evidence before diagnosis or overlooking oil-supply and mechanical timing causes.
Frequently asked questions
Do both valves have to be replaced together?
No. The selected product is sold as a pair, but a packaging choice is not a diagnostic requirement. Replace the faulty valve or valves based on testing. If only one bank has a problem, confirm the other bank’s condition before replacing a working component.
Does this job require a timing-belt replacement?
The external oil-control-valve replacement itself does not require removing the belt or resetting cam timing. Mechanical timing diagnosis or VVT actuator work is a separate repair. If the complaint started immediately after belt work, investigate that history before assuming the solenoid failed.
Can I use this procedure on a Highlander Hybrid?
No. Even where a seller lists the same replacement parts, the hybrid has different disabling and access requirements. An engine that appears stopped can restart while the vehicle is ready to drive. Use the hybrid-specific service instructions and appropriate training.
What if the code returns?
Check that the connector is locked, the correct side was serviced and the seal does not leak. Then return to the diagnostic sequence. A recurring code can indicate wiring, restricted oil flow or a mechanical timing problem. Replacing another pair without testing is unlikely to be an efficient next step.
Sources and further reading
- Selected A-Premium two-valve listing
- Manufacturer product and interchange information
- Toyota 3MZ timing-response diagnosis and bank identification
- Toyota 3MZ actuator-circuit code information
- Toyota Highlander 3MZ component inspection
- Toyota Highlander 3MZ assembly torque specifications
- Haynes Highlander/Lexus RX manual, Chapter 2B, OCV replacement
- Toyota/Lexus 3MZ valve installation and O-ring handling reference
- Related: 2004–2007 Highlander 3.3L alternator replacement
- IFCAR photograph and public-domain release