Rear brake pad and rotor replacement on a 2007–2010 Dodge Charger 3.5L V6 with rear-wheel drive and standard 320 mm solid rear rotors starts with diagnosing grinding, uneven pad wear, pulsation or persistent dragging. There is no dedicated OBD-II trouble code that proves these pads or rotors need replacement. ABS faults, a soft pedal and parking-brake problems require their own checks; symptoms alone do not establish that a rotor kit is the solution.
Application: identify the rear brake package
This guide covers both rear wheels on the configuration above, excluding police and heavy-duty brakes. The rear service caliper slides on guide pins; separate parking-brake shoes work inside the rotor hat. Replacing the disc pads does not replace those shoes. A sticking shoe, seized adjuster or damaged cable can still cause drag after new pads and rotors are installed.
Match the VIN-based parts catalog, original rotor type and delivered parts before disassembly. A 12.60-inch outside diameter alone does not identify the correct brake package: solid and vented rotors are different. Do not use this procedure for Brembo/SRT fixed calipers, AWD-specific packages, conversions or later Chargers simply because the listing names them.
Intermediate. Requires safe lifting, measured tightening and parking-brake adjustment.
2–4 hours for both rear wheels, excluding diagnosis, severe corrosion or shoe repairs.
$100–$220 for an aftermarket rear pad-and-rotor set; consumables and tools are extra.
Featured rear brake kit
A-Premium 12.60-inch (320 mm) rear solid brake rotors and ceramic pads kit, ASIN B0B3RKSCTH, is the six-piece rear-left-and-right variation: two rotors and four disc pads. The Amazon listing identifies APBRPR008AM; the manufacturer catalog uses APBRPR008. Listed interchange references include 4779208AA/AB, BR53021 and P-1057. These references help identify the kit; they are not universal fitment approval.
Plan separately for parking-brake shoes, calipers, hoses, fluid, tools and any worn hardware. Do not assume extra clips or replacement bolts are included merely because they appear in another kit’s photos. Inspect the delivered pad shape, rotor hat, mounting holes and package contents before starting.
View the 320 mm rear rotor and ceramic pad kit
Vehicle compatibility and purchasing checks
| Make and model | Model years | Engine / drivetrain | Required configuration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dodge Charger — this procedure | 2007–2010 | 3.5L V6 / RWD | Standard 320 mm solid rear rotors; no heavy-duty or police package. Match the original assembly and VIN catalog. |
| Chrysler 300, Dodge Challenger, Charger and Magnum — other catalog applications | Varies by model and selected package | Engine, trim and drivetrain restrictions vary | The kit is also cataloged for selected additional applications. They are outside this procedure; use the manufacturer’s exact vehicle selector and the corresponding service information. |
For a car with unknown brake modifications, identify the installed hardware before ordering. Compare rotor construction and hat depth as well as diameter. Do not replace a vented rotor with a thin solid rotor or adapt an incorrect pad by grinding its backing plate.
Diagnosis before buying parts
- Grinding: inspect both inner and outer pads on both sides. One worn-out pad can indicate a seized guide pin or piston.
- Pulsation: inspect hub cleanliness, wheel fastening and bearing condition. A shop can measure installed rotor runout and thickness variation before blaming the discs.
- Drag or heat: distinguish service-caliper drag from parking-shoe drag. A collapsed hose, rusty shoe adjuster or sticking parking cable will not be cured by this kit.
- Squeal: inspect contact hardware, glazing and contamination. Noise alone does not establish that the rotor is below its wear limit.
- Warning lamps or a soft pedal: diagnose the hydraulic or ABS fault separately. Do not erase codes and assume a mechanical pad change repaired it.
Check pad wear across the axle, leaks around the piston boot and hose, rotor cracking and severe corrosion. For thickness checks, use a rotor micrometer away from the outer lip and compare with the actual rotor’s marked discard limit. Replace pads as an axle set; keep both rear friction assemblies consistent.
Tools, parts and supplies
These are practical exact-product choices, not a requirement to buy a new tool collection. Check your existing tools first. Socket sizes can change with replacement hardware; confirm the actual fastener before applying force. The two socket sets match the two torque-wrench drives without an adapter.
| Tool or Supply | Exact Product | Product Link | Purpose and Selection Check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Floor jack | ARCAN A20003, 3-ton low-profile steel jack | View floor jack | Lifting only. Check clearance, rated load and saddle contact at approved body lifting points. |
| Support stands | BIG RED T43002A, 3-ton double-locking stands, pair | View support stands | Use a matched pair and both locks. Confirm the pair rating and stable contact at the designated support points. |
| Wheel chocks | Fasmov solid-rubber wheel chocks, 2-pack | View wheel chocks | Block a front wheel in both directions before releasing the parking brake or lifting the rear. |
| Sockets and ratchet | TEKTON SKT15201, 3/8-inch drive, 42-piece, 6–24 mm | View sockets and ratchet | Hand tools for caliper fasteners. Confirm each head size; do not force a loose-fitting socket. |
| Holding wrenches | TEKTON WCB94201, 14-piece, 6–19 mm | View holding wrenches | Hold the guide-pin flats while loosening or tightening the bolts; select the snug-fitting wrench. |
| Larger-drive sockets | TEKTON SHD92211, 1/2-inch drive, 30-piece, 10–24 mm | View larger-drive sockets | For bracket and wheel fasteners with the breaker bar and larger torque wrench. Confirm size, depth and clearance. |
| Breaker bar | TEKTON SBH00224, 1/2-inch drive, 24-inch | View breaker bar | Loosen stubborn fasteners with matching 1/2-inch sockets. Never use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. |
| Low-range torque wrench | TEKTON TRQ51402, 3/8-inch drive, 10–100 ft-lb | View low-range torque wrench | Covers the 23 ft-lb guide-pin bolt setting. Use the 3/8-inch sockets. |
| Higher-range torque wrench | TEKTON TRQ52403, 1/2-inch drive, 40–300 ft-lb | View higher-range torque wrench | Covers 85 ft-lb bracket bolts and 110 ft-lb wheel nuts. Its lower limit is too high for guide-pin bolts. |
| Piston spreader | Lisle 24400 disc brake pad spreader | View piston spreader | Press this sliding-caliper piston straight inward through the old pad, slowly and evenly. Stop if it binds. |
| Caliper supports | ARES 18060, 4-piece green caliper hanger set | View caliper supports | Suspend each caliper from a secure point with the hose relaxed; never hang it by the hose. |
| Parking-brake adjuster tool | Lisle 50700 brake adjusting tool | View parking-brake adjuster tool | Turn the star wheel through the backing-plate access slot. Check that the end engages without damaging the teeth. |
| Drum-to-shoe transfer gauge — conditional | BGS 1939 brake drum gauge, 160–360 mm | View drum-to-shoe transfer gauge | For preliminary parking-shoe adjustment when needed; measure the rotor’s internal drum and transfer that setting to the shoes. |
| Brake cleaner | CRC 05088 non-chlorinated Brakleen, 14 oz | View brake cleaner | Clean bare friction surfaces and catch runoff. Follow the label, ventilate and keep away from flames and incompatible rubber. |
| Small cleaning brushes | Warner 3-piece steel, brass and nylon mini brush set | View small cleaning brushes | Remove loose corrosion from hub and pad-support surfaces without gouging them. Keep dust wet; protect boots. |
| Clean wiping cloths | Amazon Basics microfiber cleaning cloths, 24-pack | View clean wiping cloths | Use clean, lint-free cloths for final wiping. Keep brake-contaminated cloths separate and dispose of waste appropriately. |
| Runoff pan | Lisle 17972, 4.5-gallon oval drain pan | View runoff pan | Catch dirty cleaner; this capacity is not a brake-fluid refill quantity. Do not reuse collected liquid. |
| Brake lubricant | AGS Sil-Glyde BK4, 4 oz tube | View brake lubricant | Rubber-compatible brake lubricant for guide pins and specified metal contact points. Keep all friction faces and bolt threads clean. |
| Eye protection | DEWALT DPG82-11 clear anti-fog safety goggles, pair | View eye protection | Wear during cleaning and removal; protect against splash and debris. |
| Gloves — select chemical compatibility | ThxToms nitrile chemical-resistant gloves, medium pair | View gloves | Confirm fit and compatibility with your cleaner’s safety data sheet; nitrile is not resistant to every solvent. |
| Fluid extractor — conditional | OEMTOOLS 25443, 200 cc extractor with extension tubes | View fluid extractor | Only if reservoir fluid would overflow. Use a clean unit dedicated to brake fluid; never one used for oil or fuel. |
| Brake fluid — only if needed | Prestone AS400 DOT 3 synthetic brake fluid, 12 oz | View brake fluid | Use fresh fluid from a sealed container for the specified DOT 3 system. Correct the level after pumping the pedal; never mask a leak. |
| Rotor micrometer — diagnostic option | Fowler 72-234-222, 0.300–1.300-inch rotor micrometer | View rotor micrometer | Measure away from the wear lip and compare with the rotor’s marked limit. A ruler cannot assess thickness variation. |
Vehicle-specific materials: obtain Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive or a documented equivalent for the guide-pin bolt threads, plus VIN-matched clips, boots or fasteners if inspection requires them. These items remain separate from the kit. Choose the specified adhesive by its application, not just its color; do not substitute anti-seize. Have damaged parking-brake hardware repaired before completing the job.
DIY versus professional cost
Planning estimates in US dollars for both rear wheels, not live listing prices or a shop quote:
| Cost item | Estimated allowance | Scope |
|---|---|---|
| Rear pads and rotors | $100–$220 | Aftermarket axle set; confirm the selected variation. |
| Consumables / minor hardware | $20–$60 | Cleaner, lubricant, thread adhesive and incidental supplies; major shoe or caliper work excluded. |
| Tools if not owned | $200–$600+ | Lifting equipment and torque tools can dominate a first-time DIY budget. |
| Professional labor | $150–$350 | Typical allowance for a straightforward rear axle job; local rates and corrosion vary. |
| Estimated total | DIY: $120–$280 with tools owned; shop: $270–$630 | A shop’s own parts pricing, taxes and additional repairs can increase the total. |
Replacement steps: 2007–2010 Charger 3.5L RWD
1. Prepare and support the car
Confirm the parts and repair the source of abnormal wear first. With the car on the ground, loosen the rear wheel nuts slightly. Secure the front wheels with chocks and keep the transmission in Park for lifting. Use the designated body lifting and support locations shown in the Charger manual, with compatible jack and stand saddles. Do not lift under suspension crossmembers, the differential cover, floor pan or bumpers. Transfer the load fully to the stands and check stability before removing the wheels.
Release the parking brake for the rear work. Clean around the brake-fluid reservoir cap and check the level. Piston retraction raises it; if necessary, withdraw only enough fluid to prevent overflow using a clean dedicated extractor. Protect paint and keep dirt out of the reservoir.
2. Remove the caliper and pads
Work on one side at a time so the other side remains a reference. Hold the guide-pin flats while removing the two caliper guide-pin bolts. Lift the caliper away without twisting its hose and hang it securely. Never press the brake pedal with the caliper removed. Record pad and clip orientation, then remove the disc pads and accessible abutment clips.
Retract the piston slowly through the old pad using the spreader, watching the reservoir. This caliper uses straight compression, not a screw-in parking-brake piston. Keep the boot from folding or tearing. Excessive resistance, leakage or a damaged piston requires repair rather than more leverage. This pad-and-rotor job leaves the hydraulic hose attached.
3. Remove the bracket and rotor
Remove the two adapter-bracket bolts and lift the bracket away. Remove any rotor-retaining clips from the wheel studs, then slide the rotor off. If it catches on the parking shoes, use the backing-plate access slot to back off the star adjuster. Do not force the rotor over the shoes or hammer the friction ring, studs or backing plate. If corrosion prevents controlled removal, stop for suitable professional extraction.
4. Inspect and clean
Inspect parking-shoe linings, springs, adjuster and backing plate while exposed. Loose linings, broken springs or a seized adjuster must be corrected. Clean the hub-to-rotor mating face flat without removing base metal. Clean corrosion beneath the pad clips so the new pads can move freely. Inspect guide pins and boots; replace damaged pieces. Apply a thin film of rubber-compatible brake lubricant to serviceable pins and the specified pad contact points, keeping it off the friction surfaces and threaded fasteners.
5. Fit the new rotor and set the parking shoes
Follow the rotor packaging’s surface-preparation instructions. Remove shipping oil from bare friction surfaces, including the parking-brake drum inside the hat; do not strip an intentional coating that the manufacturer says to retain. Compare the new rotor with the original and seat it fully on the clean hub.
If a preliminary shoe setting is needed, measure the new rotor’s internal drum with the transfer gauge, then set the shoe span at its widest point until both linings just meet the gauge jaws. Install the rotor and complete the fine adjustment below; the preliminary measurement alone is not the final setting.
6. Install the bracket, pads and caliper
Install the adapter and tighten its bolts to 115 N·m (85 ft-lb). Fit serviceable or correct new abutment clips and install the pads in their proper positions. Pads should move in the supports without being forced. Refit the caliper over the pads without pinching the boots. Clean the guide-pin bolt threads and apply Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive or its documented equivalent. Start bolts by hand, hold each guide pin stationary and tighten to 31 N·m (23 ft-lb).
| Fastener | Torque | Application |
|---|---|---|
| Rear adapter to knuckle | 115 N·m / 85 ft-lb | Standard sliding-caliper rear brake covered here |
| Rear caliper guide-pin bolts | 31 N·m / 23 ft-lb | Hold pin flats; specified thread adhesive |
| Wheel nuts | 150 N·m / 110 ft-lb | Non-police application; clean mating surfaces |
7. Finish the parking-brake adjustment
Complete both sides, then reinstall the wheels and seat the nuts evenly. With both rear wheels securely supported and the front wheels chocked, select Neutral only for the rotation check; keep the engine off. Fully release the parking brake. Through the backing-plate access opening, expand the left star wheel toward the rear of the car, and the right star wheel toward the front. Adjust until that wheel locks, then reverse the adjuster six teeth. Check rotation. If drag remains excessive, back off one tooth at a time, stopping at light drag; do not exceed 17 teeth from lock. A wheel that still binds requires diagnosis. Replace both access plugs.
8. Restore pedal, fluid level and wheel torque
Apply and release the parking brake to confirm engagement and release on both sides. Return the transmission to Park before lowering. Pump the service-brake pedal until it becomes firm before moving the vehicle. Check the fluid level again and correct it using fresh DOT 3 fluid as needed; do not overfill. Refit the reservoir cap securely. Lower the car safely and tighten the wheel nuts in a crossing pattern to 150 N·m (110 ft-lb).
With the engine running, confirm a firm, stable pedal after the normal initial booster movement. Inspect for leaks, verify the parking brake holds and releases, and perform a cautious low-speed stop in a clear area. Follow the supplied pad manufacturer’s bedding instructions; avoid inventing a high-speed stop sequence. Braking may initially feel reduced. Stop for pulling, grinding, persistent pulsation, overheating or an abnormal pedal.
Common mistakes
- Buying by model name or diameter while overlooking solid versus vented construction.
- Leaving rust beneath the rotor or pad clips, causing poor seating or binding.
- Using the 40–300 ft-lb wrench for a 23 ft-lb bolt.
- Confusing parking-shoe adjustment with service-piston retraction.
- Putting lubricant on pads, rotor faces, wheel seats or bolt threads.
- Forgetting pedal pumping, reservoir correction or parking-brake checks before driving.
Frequently asked questions
Does the kit replace the parking brake?
No. It supplies disc pads and rotors. The separate shoes, springs and cables must be inspected and serviced as needed.
Will it fit every Charger from 2007 through 2010?
No. This guide’s application is the 3.5L RWD car with standard solid rear rotors, excluding heavy-duty and police packages. Verify the actual brake configuration before buying.
Do the brakes need bleeding?
A routine pad-and-rotor replacement that keeps the hose connected and the system sealed normally does not introduce air. An opened hydraulic circuit, empty reservoir or abnormal pedal requires the proper bleeding and fault-diagnosis procedure before driving.
Can I reuse the old pads with new rotors?
Fit the new matched axle pad set for this job. Investigate uneven wear or contamination so it does not damage the replacement parts.
Is a scan tool needed to retract these rear pistons?
The covered standard rear caliper is mechanically compressed and has separate parking shoes. Do not apply this statement to another vehicle or an electronic parking-brake system.
Sources and further reading
- A-Premium kit specifications and application catalog
- Dodge 2008 Charger owner’s manual: lifting precautions and brake-fluid requirements
- Factory service information: 2007 Charger 3.5L rear rotor installation
- Factory service information: 2010 Charger 3.5L rear caliper installation
- Factory service information: Charger parking-brake shoe adjustment
- AGS brake-lubricant specifications
- BGS drum-gauge specifications
- More maintenance for the 2009–2010 Charger 3.5L: ignition coils and spark plugs