Throttle body replacement on a 2010 Dodge Challenger SE with the 3.5L V6 may be needed after diagnosis of an electronic-throttle warning, limited acceleration or unstable idle. One relevant code is P2112, which Chrysler describes as an electronic throttle system unable to open. A code or symptom alone does not prove the assembly has failed: low battery voltage, contamination, wiring faults and poor connections can produce similar trouble.
This guide covers the original 2010 3.5L intake arrangement, including its throttle support bracket, separate mounting gasket and required scan-tool setup. Confirm the engine and original part before ordering. A listing that mentions “Challenger” can include very different V6 and V8 hardware; matching the vehicle name alone is insufficient.
Moderate; enhanced scanner required
1–2 hours after diagnosis
$85–$150, body and gasket
Allow additional time for damaged connectors, access problems or diagnostic testing. The estimate assumes the replacement has already been confirmed and that compatible equipment is available for the throttle relearn and battery-reconnection checks.
Featured throttle-body assembly
A-Premium APTHB031 / APTHB031MF, ASIN B097JX7XKK, is one aluminum electronic throttle body with an included throttle-position sensor. The exact listing describes a 64 mm bore and six female blade terminals. Catalog references include 04861691AA / 4861691AA and 04591844AC / 4591844AC. A separate idle-air-control motor and gasket are not included.
Compare the connector keying, flange, hose connections and mounting holes with the original. Buy a new application-correct mounting gasket separately. Keep the packaging and identification labels until the replacement has been installed and its operation verified. Do not alter the connector, adjust the factory stop or transfer incompatible electronics to make a mismatched assembly fit.
View the APTHB031 throttle body
Vehicle compatibility and scope
| Make / model | Model years | Engine | Application check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dodge Challenger SE | 2010 | 3.5L V6 | Repair procedure covered here; verify VIN, original assembly and unmodified intake. |
| Dodge Challenger | 2009–2010 | 3.5L V6 | Featured product catalog coverage. This article’s service instructions are checked for 2010. |
| Other Chrysler and Dodge models | Selected years only | Selected 2.7L, 3.5L and 4.0L engines | Additional catalog applications exist; their access steps and specifications are not established by this guide. |
This is not a HEMI V8 procedure or a later 3.6L Pentastar guide. Transmission or trim wording in a shopping filter does not replace an engine and part-number check. Vehicles with an engine swap, different intake manifold or aftermarket calibration need an individual assessment.
Diagnose the cause before replacing the part
Record stored and pending codes, freeze-frame conditions and the driver’s description before disconnecting the battery. Note whether the problem occurs cold, hot, during acceleration or after another repair. A clean diagnostic record helps distinguish the original fault from a connector accidentally left unplugged during service.
For P2112, the factory diagnostic path checks battery condition, possible ice or dirt at the plate and the throttle motor circuits before condemning an assembly. Inspect the loom for rubbing, pinched sections, damaged locks and corrosion. Have a questionable battery load-tested. A restricted intake or loose hose also deserves attention before buying a replacement.
Do not force the blade, apply power to random terminals or probe PCM terminals with oversized test leads. The factory electrical tests use appropriate breakout equipment. If wiring tests are needed, follow the exact circuit information or have a technician complete them. A basic reader is useful for recording codes, but it does not prove that the motor or position sensor is defective.
Tools, parts and supplies
Have the gasket, both torque ranges and a confirmed calibration plan ready before starting. The enhanced scanner is the key selection: verify the named functions for the actual VIN and software version. Owning a reader with a generic “reset” menu does not guarantee Chrysler service-function coverage.
| Tool or Supply | Exact Product | Product Link | Purpose and Selection Check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metric sockets and ratchet | CASOMAN 62-piece 1/4-inch-drive SAE/metric set | View metric sockets and ratchet | Metric 4–14 mm sockets and extensions for access. Confirm each head size before loosening. The set uses 1/4-inch drive. |
| Inch-pound torque wrench | TEKTON TRQ50402, 1/4-inch drive, 20–200 in-lb | View inch-pound torque wrench | Covers the 50 in-lb throttle mounting specification. Its maximum 200 in-lb is too low for the 20 ft-lb support-bracket bolts. |
| Screwdriver / nut driver | Klein Tools 32500 11-in-1 | View screwdriver / nut driver | For compatible clamp screws and access fasteners. Confirm tip fit before turning; it is not a substitute for the torque wrench at final tightening. |
| Basic code reader | ANCEL AD310, black OBD-II reader | View basic code reader | Optional for basic engine codes and freeze-frame records. It cannot perform Chrysler ETC RELEARN or steering-angle initialization. |
| Eye protection | 3M Virtua clear-lens safety glasses, one pair | View eye protection | Protect eyes from loose debris around the air duct and fasteners; use appropriate hand protection as well. |
| Cleaning cloths | Amazon Basics microfiber cloths, 24 pack, 16 × 12 inches | View cleaning cloths | Use a clean cloth on accessible sealing areas and a clean temporary intake cover. Count and remove every cover before assembly. Do not soak the new electronics. |
| Support-bracket torque wrench | LEXIVON LX-182, 3/8-inch drive, 10–80 ft-lb | View support-bracket torque wrench | Its range covers the 20 ft-lb bracket specification. Keep it separate from the low-range wrench used on the throttle flange. |
| Drive adapters | TEKTON SHA99017, four-piece adapter set | View drive adapters | Use the 3/8-inch female to 1/4-inch male adapter with the listed metric sockets for the bracket. Do not use an impact tool. |
| New throttle-body gasket | FEL-PRO 61389, mounting gasket | View new throttle-body gasket | One required. Cataloged for the 2010 3.5L application; match the delivered seal and original manifold. The featured assembly excludes it. |
| Enhanced scanner — confirm coverage first | FOXWELL NT510 Elite, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep software version | View enhanced scanner | Candidate with throttle-adjustment and SAS functions advertised. Obtain VIN-specific confirmation for 2010 Challenger 3.5L ETC RELEARN and ABS steering-angle initialization before purchase or disassembly. |
| Wheel chocks | Fasmov solid-rubber wheel chocks, two-pack with handles | View wheel chocks | Prevent movement on level ground with the parking brake applied. This throttle-body access does not require raising the car. |
| Battery-work gloves — size and pack check | Ansell AlphaTec 58-535B-10, size 10 / XL, lot of six pairs | View battery-work gloves | Reusable nitrile-coated chemical gloves. Only one correctly fitting pair is needed; this listing is a bulk option. Check chemical-resistance guidance and condition. These are not electrical insulating gloves. |
The FOXWELL listing identifies Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep software and advertises throttle adjustment and steering-angle functions. Exact 2010 Challenger ETC and ABS coverage must still be confirmed with the supplier. If confirmation is unavailable, arrange a shop with suitable Chrysler equipment before dismantling the intake. Do not buy several scanners merely to try them.
Estimated DIY and professional cost
| Expense | Planning estimate | What is included |
|---|---|---|
| Throttle body and new gasket | $85–$150 | One replacement assembly and one seal; not a live listing price. |
| Consumables and protection | $10–$35 | Allowance when suitable gloves, glasses and basic supplies are already available; bulk packs cost more. |
| Hand tools if not owned | $100–$250 | Sockets, adapters and two torque ranges; reusable equipment. |
| Enhanced scanner if not owned | $150–$250 | Only after exact function coverage is confirmed; software and service costs vary. |
| DIY with tools already owned | $95–$185 | Parts and ordinary supplies; excludes diagnosis or paid calibration. |
| Professional diagnosis / labor / setup | $150–$350 | Illustrative allowance, separate from the part; local rates and faults vary. |
| Professional total | $245–$535 | Illustrative parts, supplies and labor combination; tax and unrelated repairs excluded. |
A low part price does not make a speculative replacement economical. If you must buy every tool for one repair, obtain an itemized shop quote first. Ask whether diagnosis, the mounting gasket, ETC relearn and required battery-reconnection calibrations are included.
Removal and installation: 2010 Challenger 3.5L
1. Prepare the car and isolate the battery
Save the scan report and check all replacement parts. Open the trunk and access the battery beneath the rear-compartment floor trim. With the ignition off, disconnect the negative cable and isolate it so it cannot spring back onto the post. Keep tools away from the positive terminal. Leave safe access to the luggage compartment throughout the repair.
2. Open the intake connection
Photograph the inlet hose, electrical connectors and vacuum hose routing. Loosen the inlet clamp and separate the hose from the throttle body without tearing the duct. Release any sensor connector that prevents moving the hose safely; pull connector housings rather than wires. Keep the removed duct clean.
3. Remove the throttle assembly
Unplug the throttle connections and disconnect the vacuum hose. Remove the support bracket, retaining its fasteners in their original groups, then remove the four throttle mounting bolts. Support the unit as the last bolt is released. Lift it away and remove the old gasket. Cover the intake opening with a clean, countable cover.
4. Inspect the sealing areas
Remove remaining gasket material without gouging the mating faces or dropping debris inside. Inspect the manifold and fastener threads. A cracked flange, stripped thread or damaged hose must be repaired before assembly. Compare the old and new units again while both are accessible. Remove the temporary intake cover and account for all loose items.
5. Seat the new body and tighten the flange
Install the new mounting gasket, position the replacement and start the four bolts by hand. With the actuator housing on the left when looking into the bore, the factory sequence is upper left, lower right, upper right, lower left. Tighten in that criss-cross order to 5.5 N·m (50 in-lb). Do not use silicone lubricant on the throttle body.
6. Refit the bracket, hoses and plugs
Reinstall the support bracket and tighten its bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft-lb). Restore the vacuum hose and electrical connections, engaging their locks. Seat the inlet hose fully and tighten its clamp securely without deforming the duct. The cited installation procedure gives no numeric clamp torque, so do not borrow another engine’s value. Check that no wiring is trapped under the bracket.
7. Reconnect and inspect
Reconnect the negative cable securely and reinstall the rear-compartment floor trim. Check that the cable cannot rotate on its post. Verify that the intake is complete, the bracket is present and all tools are removed before switching on. Proceed with the setup below before judging the replacement’s operation.
ETC relearn and battery-reconnection checks
Throttle setup: connect a scan tool that supports the vehicle and run ETC RELEARN. Follow its ignition, pedal and engine-state prompts exactly, keeping hands clear of the throttle. Confirm successful completion. Battery disconnection or a generic pedal sequence is not a substitute for the function specified in Chrysler’s installation procedure.
Windows, if equipped with auto-up: switch the ignition to RUN. Raise the driver’s window fully and hold the switch for at least two seconds at the stop; lower it fully and hold for at least two seconds; raise it fully and hold for at least two seconds again. Repeat for the passenger window, then verify express operation. Keep hands and objects clear. If a second calibration attempt fails, diagnose the door modules.
Electronic stability program, if equipped: center the steering wheel with the front wheels straight ahead and use compatible equipment to initialize the steering-angle sensor. Follow the scan tool’s instructions. A flashing ESP/BAS lamp after reconnection can indicate missing calibration; do not assume every warning is a new throttle defect.
Start the engine only after the intake is fully assembled, with good ventilation and everyone clear of belts and fans. Check for air leaks, unusual sounds, warning lamps, stable idle and normal pedal response. Re-scan and record the result. Stop if the engine races, stalls repeatedly or the electronic-throttle warning persists.
Use the factory powertrain verification procedure for the diagnosed fault, including its monitor conditions and any applicable follow-on tests. Road-test only when stationary operation is safe. A cleared lamp immediately after battery disconnection is not proof that a monitor has passed; retain the before-and-after scan results and confirm the original symptom is gone.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Ordering a HEMI or later 3.6L assembly because the listing title contains the same model name.
- Reusing a damaged gasket or trapping it between misaligned faces.
- Confusing inch-pounds at the flange with foot-pounds at the support bracket.
- Leaving the bracket, vacuum hose, intake sensor or connector lock loose.
- Spraying the electronics with solvent or applying silicone to the new assembly.
- Skipping ETC relearn or overlooking battery-related window and steering-angle setup.
Frequently asked questions
Can cleaning solve the fault?
Contamination can contribute to a sticking plate, but cleaning will not repair a failed motor, internal sensor or damaged wiring. Establish the cause first and follow the component maker’s cleaning restrictions. A new assembly should not need aggressive cleaning before installation.
Does the featured body come with the gasket?
No. The manufacturer catalog lists the seal as excluded. The linked mounting gasket is a separate purchase; compare it with the original before opening the intake.
Can a basic OBD-II reader finish the job?
No. Reading and clearing generic codes does not perform the required Chrysler ETC function or steering-angle initialization. Confirm enhanced coverage or arrange professional setup in advance.
Why are there two torque wrenches?
The small flange bolts and larger support-bracket fasteners use different torque ranges. Using a wrench below its rated range or above its maximum can lead to an unreliable result.
What if the same symptom returns?
Recheck disturbed connections and sealing, then follow the code-specific diagnostic path. Do not repeatedly clear the fault, raise the idle stop or replace the accelerator pedal without test evidence.
Sources and further help
Service references below reproduce the 2010 Chrysler procedures for this engine. Product identity and fitment were checked against the exact ASIN information, manufacturer catalog and gasket catalog. Prices above are planning estimates; confirm current contents and configuration before ordering.
- Exact featured product listing
- A-Premium APTHB031 application and included parts
- Chrysler 2010 Challenger 3.5L throttle-body removal
- Chrysler installation, torque sequence and ETC relearn
- Chrysler P2112 diagnostic procedure
- Chrysler battery reconnection and calibration
- Chrysler powertrain verification test
- Fel-Pro master gasket catalog, Chrysler Car groups 63 and 66
- FOXWELL NT510 Elite manufacturer information
- Ansell AlphaTec 58-535B specifications
Find more application-specific work in the HowToMechanic repair guides. If diagnosis, electrical testing or service-function access is beyond your equipment, a qualified technician can complete those stages before further parts are purchased.